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Schrauber601 2018-03-16 10:37:15
This frame I bought for a spare quad (if I crash my main chameleon), but I was surprised about the performance. My build (photos) weights 326g - a ton lighter than my chameleon (-67g). I used not a single screw or bold from this kit. Part list: - FC+ESC's: Racerstar TattooF4S 30A - 4x RCX NK2204 2400KV FPV Racing Motor - RunCam Sparrow - VTX EWRF E709TM3 5.8G 48CH - Receiver FrSky XSR - Realacc UXII 5.8G 1.6dBi MMCX-90 Degree RHCP Antenna (was a total fail - I wait for a Foxeer pagoda with MMCX now) - Racerstar R5040X3 5040 3-blade propeller With this setup - esp. with the Racerstar propeller - I got a strong audible resonance at 215Hz, mostly at yaw. This a a bit con if you put a action cam on top: A bit jello and a strange sound is the result. I hope with other well balanced propellers this effect gets weaker but it is part of the frame design and my setting with the 5mm spacer. Pros: - not heavy, not fragile - thin arms, wide wheelbase for clean air - low profile, mass (battery) centered along the roll axis - good FPV camera protection, mount for standard cams - 2nd 30.5mm mounting position at the back for a VTX - very good battery position Cons: - strange 215Hz resonance (spacer-arm-spacer assembling) - approx 45° uptilt for a action cam - this frame isn't a racer! 25-30° are better here - no screws for 15mm height - no 28mm standoffs (only 25mm plus 3mm) - no additional "soft" parts like battery-pads, straps, stands... - need for 8mm M3 screws for the motors (5mm arms)! I didn’t crash it hard till today - so I can't tell anything about the robustness.
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Schrauber601 2020-08-14 04:08:14
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Schrauber601 2019-09-20 07:56:08
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Schrauber601 2019-09-18 04:22:25
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Schrauber601 2018-03-16 11:09:23
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Schrauber601 2018-03-16 09:51:43
This tiny 1.5 inch (38mm) quadcopter can be used for indoor flying and for outdoor (yard) usage too. It is not optimal for beginners because there are some issues. In stabilized (angle/horizon) mode it tents to drift away. Out of the box the drift gets quickly stronger and results in a non-flyable state. To handle that, I replaced the propeller by 3-blade KingKong and I soft-mounted the flight controller. The carbon on the prop-guards (ducts) and for the camera "tower" is not strong enough for hard crashes (free fall 3m is enough). It helps a lot to glue the upper parts together. Replacement pars are provided but there is no stock even at the Eachine store. Battery: It's a 400mAh 2S 30C with 25g weight. Not a good choice because it is drained in under 2 minutes (original propeller)! Using a 30g battery with 450mAh-500mAh, 70C results in a significant longer flight time. What I've done to my Aurora 68: weight current 51g (w/o antenna protectors, but with a lot of epoxy) - Kingkong 3-blade propeller - flight controller softmount (holed drilled to 3mm for rubber) - FlySky mini receiver with a 85mm antenna (original antenna place is worse) - VTX antenna replaced, antenna-protectors detached - reassembled camera-VTX combo - buzzer glued to the ducts / frame (prevents short circuits) - glued cracks and fractures - 2 motors repaired (stator is not well secured against twisting) - XT30 connector - using Tattu 2S 450mAh and some other no-name batteries - Betaflight 3.3, Mockingbird rate setting for indoor = flight time 3min 30sec indoor Pros: - Betaflight OSD - LED strip - prop guards for indoor flying - nice camera VTX combo - moderate price - brushless powerful Cons: - angle / horizon mode problems - ineffective, noisy stock propeller - fragile frame - stock receiver antenna placed between propeller guards: worse reception results in fail safes - camera assembling (double sided tape) worse - screws on the frame gets loose quickly, need loctide esp. on the motors - build quality (one motor screw shorten a winding, ...) - w/o tuning it's easy to get a roll/flip of death in acro mode My conclusion: Better keep an eye the the larger brother Aurora 90 if you like the look of this model.
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