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Blufires 20/05/2018
This is my second plane. I started off with a Sky Surfer (1400mm Bixler-style), but I wish I had just bought this wing as my first plane. It flies a little faster than the Sky Surfer, but its agility makes it easier to fly in a small space like a park or rugby/soccer/NFL field. Its light weight and EPP foam means it hasn't been damaged at all on several nose-ins at half throttle when trying to set up my flight controller's auto-level. It did get a small tear in the leading edge of a wing after landing in a tree though, so tape or lamination film on the leading edge is recommended. The included prop does not have a 5mm ID, so if you buy a quad/drone motor, you will need to get matching props too. Keep in mind if you use a quad/drone ESC, the prop will brake instead of freewheeling when you drop the throttle, so this will decrease your glide distance. The wingspan is actually 580mm and the airframe itself weighs just 53 grams. If you add only a 14500 lithium cell, a receiver and two servos you can have a slope soarer that weighs only 95g and can glide in a light breeze (plus it's legal to use near Australian airports if it's under 100g). My build was an 1808 quad motor, a 20A quad ESC, a 5030 2 blade prop, a KK2 mini flight controller, a 3A BEC, a PPM receiver (very light, no PWM pins), a Turnigy Nanotech 460mAh 2S lipo, and 2x HobbyKing 3.7g ultra micro servos. The servos don't fit perfectly. The length and width is perfect, but the holes in the wing aren't deep enough. You can't cut them much deeper because the carbon spar underneath is in the way. See picture. The KK2 mini flight controller is too large to fit under the plywood motor mount. The mount is only 30mm wide, so I recommend a 20x20 flight controller. The processor doesn't matter as much as in a quadcopter, so just look for lower current draw to extend flight time. This build weighs 150g as I'm flying in the video. It has enough power that I can easily throttle out of a stall and fly vertical, but can fly slow enough to be easy to handle. It's very hard to handle in the 10km/h breeze without the flight controller in stabilization mode. I highly recommend using a FC. The build with the recommended parts in the listing will fly very slow and docile and would be perfect for a kid or a beginner without any simulator experience in no wind. If I add a regular size VTX, cloverleaf antenna with case and ultra light camera for FPV, it weighs 174g. The Eachine TX02 is a better option at only 155g flying weight. If you want a HD camera and a full size VTX, get the 800mm DW wing instead.
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Blufires 26/07/2018
The quality is par for the course for RC wing kits. Hot-wire-cut EPP foam with faded looking printing. It has a rough texture that will hinder efficiency and filament tape won't stick to it. It would also be hard to laminate with the fuselage. The orange winglets and black fuselage are bright though, as that's the actual foam's colour. The fuselage is spacious, but this is still a small plane. If you go crazy with heavy parts it will be hard to fit them in, and the plane will have a high stall speed. The servos are nicely protected in their position, and the holes are suitable for 5g servos (but you can fit 9g when cutting out the holes). The steeply swept wing with back-leaning winglets works like a pseudo-tail and fights off the yaw oscillation other straighter wings usually get after rolling. This oscillation doesn't effect flight performance much but is disorientating for FPV flying, so this wing is a good airframe for FPV. The nose section is hollow for the battery and is quite thin (3mm) at the top, so this will tear in a bad nose-in crash. The fibreglass belly tray is a nice idea, but it's extremely difficult to route your battery cable through it, and its battery door is narrower than the cutout in the foam, which means your battery will either slide around or it will have to squeeze through the battery door. The fibreglass part also won't stick to hot glue very well, so it won't conform to the harsh curve at the front of the fuselage, and will break free in your first landing. Maybe better glues can fix this, but the foam will still always be tugged at by the fibreglass trying to straighten out. I built mine with these parts: 2204 2300kv motor 5" Kingkong 5040 2 blade prop 30A Turnigy ESC with 3A BEC 3S 1000mAh Turnigy batteries 2x 9g servos Kingkong Micro CC3D FC for stabilisation and auto-level FRsky V8R7-ii receiver With the combination of large servos, a large receiver without ppm and a large ESC, my fuselage ended up very cluttered and very difficult to close the fibreglass hatches. The weight is also quite high, but the fuselage design still allows the CG to be correct even with a very large battery. Due to my low-pitch prop and low-KV motor, I'm carrying a lot of weight without the thrust to reach high speeds. As a result my flight envelope is quite narrow. I recommend an 1806 motor, 12A ESC, 5g servos and a 3S 450mAh battery instead.
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Blufires Any transmitter and receiver that are compatible with each other would suit. I recommend the Flysky i6 for a cheap beginner radio that's still powerful enough for an experienced pilot. Go for the Jumper T8SG if you're looking for something more advanced. This plane is a "kit", which means you need to glue it together and provide servos, motor, ESC, receiver and battery. If you don't have anyone to help you, just look for RTF (ready to fly - includes a basic transmitter) or BNF (bind and fly - you need to buy a compatible transmitter).

2019-02-14 10:57:32 役に立つ (1)
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Vvera You could use the “contact us” to contact the banggood customer service team.You can get the answer quickly.

2018-08-21 06:59:56 役に立つ (0)
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Blufires 26/07/2018
This is the only frame of this size I've found with separate arms. The construction is extremely good, and all the parts fit easily but with zero wiggle. The arms have a perfect place for the motor wires to run up to the sides of a 4-in-1 20x20 ESC. The top of the frame is quite low, so my stack only had room for an ESC and a FC. The FRsky XM receiver is soldered with short wires directly on top of the FC and only just fits under the frame's top plate. If you plan to use a 20x20 VTX, you will definitely need taller standoffs. Since a 20x20 VTX will not fit (without taller standoffs), You can mount the VTX to the top for bottom battery layout, or like I have in the picture, zip-tie a split Eachine TX02 VTX by its antenna to the "U" shape at the back of the top plate. It looks like the round hole here was designed for a VTX to mount via its SMA connector, but the hole is too tight for the SMA threads to fit. You could drill it out, but I'd rather not take the risk of having the carbon fibre de-laminate. The screws are all the same hex bit head as prop bolts for 11mm motors, so you only need one tool for the whole quad. Very convenient. Same thread too, so you can use spare prop bolts for the frame if you lose one. There is no regular camera mount, so you have to work something out yourself. Thingiverse has a few designs you can 3D print to adapt it to take a Runcam Swift Micro and other cameras of that size. I designed my own mount to hold a split Eachine TX02 camera (hot glued to the 3D print). With 2.5" props they swing very close to my camera. I should have designed the mount to bring it closer to the FC. A great frame all in all. 2.5" is much more powerful than 2", but it's still small enough my neighbour's dog won't start barking like it does with a 5" hovering in my yard. People at parks also ignore it in a way they can't ignore a 3".
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